
One of the causes of a no-start is a faulty Hall sensor. That
fault can arise from a short circuit in the Hall cable, due to
worn insulation on the hot wires of the Hall plug. A short circuit
in the Hall plug will "fry" the Hall sensor, necessitating
a new Hall sensor and a fix of the short circuit. These
instructions give you step-by-step instructions on replacing the
Hall cable.
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Symptoms: Engine hiccupped, then intermittently died over a period of months. Sometimes it restarted right away, other times not. Eventually engine stayed dead (but cranked). Ran tests. Got 0.25 VDC at ignition On, instead of 12 VDC, when testing #3 red wire of Hall plug. Found bare hot wires in Hall plug (Figure 1), which caused a short circuit. What caused worn insulation? Engine heat and lots of oil leaking past large O-ring of distributor into and around Hall plug. Result: The short circuit will have killed the Hall sensor (Figure 2), necessitating a replacement Hall sensor and a fix of the short circuit. One Solution for short circuit: Replace the Hall cable, which runs from the distributor to the Ignition Control Unit (ICU). This difficult task involves working in cramped spaces and contorting your body underneath the dash to isolate and free the Hall cable. Not easy! |
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Such a time would be replacing the Hall cable that runs from the distributor alongside and through the firewall to the ICU under the drivers side dashboard (above the gas pedal). |
If you wish to replace the Hall
cable in your car, then download the instructions, "Replacing
a Faulty Hall Sensor Cable."